Monday, May 10, 2010

Some Interesting Facts About The Origins Of The Zhen Zhou/Pearly Flowerhorn

Zhen zhou flowerhorn or pearl flowerhorn is one of the main breed of flowerhorn.  They originated from the  original  luohans and through several crosses and line breeding were able to produce the pearly fish that it is today.

Whatever the strain of zz  it is generally believed that zz's have Amphilopus trimaculatus as a main ancestor.
Trimaculatus also known as the "rainbow cichlid"  is responsible for giving the zz's its flowerline, the body shape, the lip shape, and of course the fin shape. Trimaculatus was then cross bred with other central american cichlid  in order to produce the pearly zz's we have today.

As you can see below the picture of a trimaculatus and  some zz's.





Trimaculatus by Brent Smith




Some zhen zhous especially the low grade ones are more tri-mac in appearance. Of the classic zhen zhous it is Eastern maiden strain that closely resembles a trimaculatus.




The downside to having a trimaculatus as an ancestor is that the trait of having a weak tail and having  a small kok is passed down to the next generations.


The Trimacs were bred to Amphipolus citrenelum which gave the zhen zhus their koks and added to the zhen zhus color variety and the trailing fins. Some facial features of the midas cichlid were inherited as well.

modern day zhen zhu



The downside to having the midas cichlid as ancestor is that the fierce nature and territoriality of the midas cichlid is passed to the next generations and becomes genetically fixed. Male zhen zhu with bigger humps tend to be more aggressive than males with no humps. These males are known to kill their females and other fish,a characteristic which is observed with the midas cichlid.

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Masters' Secrets To Caring For Kamfa/Jin Hua Flowerhorn

Kamfas are flowerhorns which originated from the luo han. As to the exact steps in breeding still remains a mystery. Today however most kamfas originate from a zhen zhou which has been crossed with a parrot fish. It is better to use class A mammon parrot as compared to a blood parrot.Since mammon parrots have bigger bodies, more intense redness, have occasional pearlings at the kok and have bigger kok females. The mammon parrot  progeny would present with a better kamfa qualities of: fan tail, wrap fins, small lips, unorthodux or more intense color pattern, more colorful pearls, and large kok and body. But wether you use a mammon or a blood parrot bear in mind that only 3% of the offspring will ever grow up to be high quality show type fishes plus most of the males from this breeding would be expected to be sterile. The only problem with your mammon parrot would be the price since a grade AAA parrot would fetch a few hundred dollars. The next best thing to a mammon would be your king kong parrot.


Nice pair showing a king kong parrot and a zz mating.

How To Take Care of A Kamfa.

1. Background of the tanks Kamfas love colorful background and they would usually show off their beautiful colors when they have beautiful background. If they are exposed to montone colors and dark colors they usually appear stressed with stress bars or appear darker than the color of their surroundings.




2. Substrate

The kamfa needs to have colorful gravel, ceramic rings and crushed coral. Ceramic rings and crushed corals are porous and accomodates space for good bacteria to grow on. They provide for stability of the pH and provides your kamfa a way to rub itself  free of parasites. Male kamfas also love to move gravel from one part of the tank to another part as a means of sanitation or as nest building.


                        My king kamfa in his tank with crushed corals and colored stones.
3. Tank
Tank  it is recommended that the fish has it own tank of at least a 50 gallon tank. Kamfas tend to grow large which make them need more bigger aquariums rule of thumb is to choose an aquarium which is at least 3x the size of your fish.Kamfas also requires a minimum of 15 inches in depth. They need enough room to swim about and to establish a territory which it would vigorously defend.

4. Heaters
  The water temperature should be around 85 degrees Fahrenheit for kamfas. This is to ensure optimal growth of their kok. Frequent fluctuation in temperature would hinder kok growth.The exact place of placing a heater would depend on individual preference. Personally i prefer to place the  heater in areas that would ensure faster distribution of the heat to all parts of the aquarium. I usually place my heater either near the aquarium pumps intake valve or where the water drops from the filter box.

5. Ideal pH will be around 7.5 for Kamfa / Jinhua. For some reason kamfas prefer a more basic pH. To make your water lean towards the basic part add crushed corals as substrate. To be sure make a water analysis first by using ph testing kits.

6. Lighting is also of importance, make sure that the tank is properly illuminated for at least 8 – 12 hours a day. Lighting has an effect on the color patterns of your fish and helps relieve stress.

7. Kamfa / Jinhua also requires a tank mate. To make your kamfas kok grow bigger and for it to display intense color. You can place  a blood parrot or any  unwanted flower horn together with your kamfa.  Be sure that they are smaller than the Kamfa / Jinhua. I prefer using a blood parrot as they have the ability to play dead, or hover out of view the kamfa thereby saving their own life.

9. Water change
The frequency depends wholly on the filtration system of the tank. Do only around 20 percent of water change each time. I personally conduct a water change to my Kamfa tanks once every 2 weeks. Some kamfas tend to be more hardy than zz's and can tolerate monthly water changes even if the filter is just your simple sponge filter. Kamfas generally prefer aged, aerated water to water that comes right out of your tap. To age your water simply place the water in a big container and let it sit for a day. Place an aerator and let it run while you are aging your water.

10.  Feeding
Feeding should be done around 3 times a day, and should be fed with a variety of food – bloodworms, feeders, and pellets (which also includes color enhancer as well). Blood worms are one of the kamfas favorite food. They give the kamfa nice color and make them grow big fast and make them develop more squarish body. You could also give your kamfa live feeders consisting of any well fed and parasite free fresh water fish or fish fry. Just make sure they are parasite free. I personally feed my feeder fish Humpy head or head enhancing pellet. Not because my feeder fishes  need to grow koks but because whatever secret formula is in the head enhancing pellets will be absorb into the body of the feeder fish and be readily available to the kamfa when he eats the feeder fish.  Never get wild caught fish and feed it to your flowerhorn as they easily get digestive disorder from parasite laden live feeds. And lastly if theres anything else a kamfa would love to have it is market shrimps. Just make sure to take out the head part. Most people would say that the reason for taking out the head part is for you to prevent injury to your fish. I have found out that this is not so. I have found out based on experience that kamfas are adept at removing the head part themselves. So the real rationale for removing the head part is so you wouldn't have to remove it yourself later on. Remember that left over food adds up to water pollution.

11.Location of aquarium tank.
Place the tank of the Kamfa / Jinhua in a low traffic area at home, especially for small to medium size Kamfa / Jinhua. Small and medium sized kamfa tends to be skittyish and  might injure themselves. For larger ones, they should have no problem in adapting quickly.  Always put your Kamfa / Jinhua in a tank where the tank is around 4 feet above ground.

If you got some secret which you would want to share just post it at my comment section. I'm willing to learn new things about caring for the kamfa.

Sunday, March 14, 2010

5 Ways To Differentiate Between A Kamfa and Zz?

One of the most frequently asked question is how to differentiate a pearl lo-han(zhen zhou,zz) from a flower lohan (kamfa/jinghua). Here are the differences of each as conceptualized by the FH founders.

1.The forehead.


The head of the flower lo-han rises higher than the pearl lo-han.
 
                                     Flower Lo Han                     Pearl  Lohan

But some zz now a days have equally high heads.






2.The Black Mark/Dark Flower
On the side of the forehead we see that the Pearl Lo-han has a more conspicuous mark than the Flower Lo-han.



But some pearl Lo-han will have less conspicuous mark or no mark as they get bigger.



And some flower Lo-han may have conspicuous mark.




3.Mouth/Lips

The lips of the Kamfa is smooth and circular.




The lower lips of the ZZ is sticking/protruding out and the upper lips is shorter.
                                        "Twiggy" owned by Twigtwig

4. Eyes
The eyes of the pearl Lo-han are outstanding/bulge out.


The eyes of the flower Lo-han are hollow/sunken.

Nice king kamfa with prominent sunken eyes.


5.Finnage

The dorsal fin and anal fin of the Kamfa would wrap around the caudal fin and they would look like one whole fin.




Lamborghini diablo by Master Bejita showing nice wrap tail



The dorsal fin and anal fin of a ZZ would usually go upward and downward. The caudal fin of the ZZ is usually smaller also .



5.Tail


The bigger and older ZZ, it would have a droopy caudal tail.




This condition would not occur to the Kamfa strain because tail are stronger and more fan like.

                                                              "Pagkakaisa" by Denl


Just a reminder that these are guidelines that have been set by the masters. A newbie would be advised to patiently study these different traits and to see as many fish as he could see before being able to differentiate between a kamfa and a zhen zou. Other experts would say that a simpler way of diffentiating between a kamfa and a zz is that if the fish has features which are predominantly amhipolus trimaculatus then it is a zz. If it looks more like a vieja then its a kamfa.
Here is a picture of a zz and a trimaculatus.

Amphilophus trimaculatus regarded as the staple in creating the zhen zhou flowerhorn.


Fagioli modern day thaksinzz. Any resembalnce to the trimaculatus? How close to a trimac is he?

Vieja synspila regarded as one of the ancestors of todays kamfas.


Pagkakaisa how close to a vieja is he? Any resemblance to a vieja?

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Seven easy ways of sexing your flowerhorn.

Knowing how to sex a flowerhorn is one of the most frequently asked question by someone who wants to venture in either keeping a flowerhorn or somebody who wants to eventually go to breeding of flowerhorn. More often than not a newbie sets out to buy a flowerhorn hoping to get a highly potential flowerhorn male fry but ends up getting a female. Males are more sought after because of the potential of forming big koks and because they grow bigger and have more vibrant color. While females are more often than not culled and disposed of because they have features that are not sought after by buyers. Top females of  the school will either be not for sale or will command a higher price if the breeder decides to sell it.
Here are the different ways of sexing your flowerhorn.
1. Difference in body shape and size.
Male flowerhorns are bigger than female flowerhorn. If you are selecting from a community of frys choose the bigger or biggest fry because the males  are more dominant than females and stronger so they always have access to food which makes them grow bigger fast.
female flowerhorn

male flowerhorn Emperor by Master Norman


Fagioli mating Notice obvious difference in size between male and female flowerhorn.

2.Difference in KOK size
Male flowerhorn will have bigger koks than female flowerhorn.

Male flowerhorn with nice big hump.

Female flowerhorn ($600) rare big head female by Mickkamfa commands a high price.

Female flowerhorn with small kok. More common find.

3.Presence of black markings on dorsal fins.
Female flowerhorn will have black markings on the dorsal fins. These black markings will be evident even in fry as big as 2-3inches. It is accurate way of sexing 80% of the time.


My Thaizz from Rainnybetta with black markings on dorsal fins. Below is a female flowerhorn with prominent black marking.

4.Difference in body deportment or posture.
Female flowerhorn will have particular body deportment or body posture.




Some nice looking females. Notice the body shape, small kok and the shape of the fins when they are at a standstill. Female fry aside from being small will project this particular deporment.

5.Difference in body color.
Female flowerhorn will change in color when breeding time comes while the male maintains its vibrant color.
Female flowerhorn by Iceman4242 notice presence of vertical black stripes on body.



Same female after laying eggs. Notice how her body had turned black.


My female kamalau from rainnybetta. She had better color then but as she is nearing her first egg laying her color changed to dark green black color.

My experimental pairing. Chose the male due to its bright red color. Small kok because its a mix kamfazz. Hopefully these pair will produce monsters. If not i just cull the frys and experiment on another pair.



6. Difference of shape of vent area.
You can differentiate the sex of your flowerhorn by venting.
Male reproductive organs will appear in a more shape manner. The tip of the v is pointed towards the anal fins. While the vent is situated between the arms of the v. You can gently squeeze on the vent area and if you notice squirting out of the vents then the fish that you have is a male. Similarly females will have a more u shaped structure at the vent area no fluid will squirt out of the vent when you squeez the vent area.

7.And lastly and most sure fire way of determining if your flowerhorn is male or female.
EGGS

Female lay eggs as early as 3-4inches in size.