More Kamfas Credit to Chinatown pets for the pictures.
Blue Dragon ZZ
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Thursday, November 18, 2010
How do flowerhorn breed?
Flowerhorns are rather aggressive and very territorial fish. They are so territorial that they need lots aquarium space all to themselves. This aggressiveness can also be observed during flowerhorn breeding. Nobody does love making as passionately and as violently as the flowerhorns.
After being introduced to each other, the couple immediately goes into a ritual dance. The male would encircle the female several times rubbing his body against her. Then he heats things up a by hitting her body alternately with his tail and his mouth. Then they bite each other pushing each other back and forth and around their nesting plate. They do this for several minutes until the female ultimately reaches her climax and lays her egg. The male then starts to fertilize the eggs by swimming over them and releasing his sperm.
After egg laying both parents would swim on top of their nest guarding the eggs and maintaining the cleanliness of the nest.
Sunday, September 5, 2010
Zhen Zhou vs. Golden Monkey Flowerhorn: Key Differences & Identification Guide
The Zhen Zhou (ZZ) and the Golden Monkey (Kamalau / KML) are two of the most popular, colorful, and metallic pearled strains in the Flowerhorn hobby. However, identifying them can be challenging for beginners and seasoned enthusiasts alike—especially since breeders frequently cross-breed them to produce the hybrid ZZ Malau.
Here is how to accurately distinguish a Zhen Zhou from a Golden Monkey Flowerhorn across key physical traits.
1. Kok (Head Hump)
Golden Monkey (KML): The kok on a Golden Monkey is typically half-domed and proportional to its body size. It rarely reaches the massive "monster" proportions seen in ZZ or Kamfa strains. The KML kok is woven with intricate worm pearls, and the black flowerline (plum) is distinctly absent from the head area.
Zhen Zhou (ZZ): ZZ koks vary widely in size and shape, often growing into massive, water-filled "monster koks." They frequently feature visible flower markings extending onto the side of the head, and pearling patterns can vary from heavy to sparse.
In contrast zhen zhou koks come in various shapes and sizes. Some have pearls on them while others don't. The flower marking on the side of the kok is usually seen.
2. Facial Features
Golden Monkey (KML): Named for its distinct, monkey-like facial profile, this is the defining trait of the strain. In profile, the forehead drops sharply from the kok into a pronounced stop, leading to a slanting bridge toward the upper lip. The jawline is thick and prominent, giving the fish a bold, aggressive facial expression.
Zhen Zhou (ZZ): A Zhen Zhou features a smoother, more streamlined head profile without the distinct deep "stop" or pronounced monkey jaw.
Grand Champion KML from ILC
3. Lips & Mouth
Golden Monkey (KML): Possesses thin, bow-shaped lips similar to a Kamfa. A slight protrusion of the lower lip combined with a strong jawline gives the face its classic monkey shape.
Zhen Zhou (ZZ): Zhen Zhou Flowerhorns typically have thicker, more prominent lips that extend further forward, often forming an "underbite" or more protruding mouth structure.
4. Origin & Genetics
Golden Monkey: Originating in Malaysia and descended from original Luohan stock, pure Golden Monkeys carry white, black, and gold mottling with red-tinted fins. They are rare, highly sought-after, and command higher prices in the aquarium trade.
Zhen Zhou: Bred predominantly for vibrant red coloration, fast growth, and massive head humps, Zhen Zhous are much more common and form the baseline for many modern Flowerhorn hybrids.
#Flowerhorn #GoldenMonkeyFlowerhorn #ZhenZhou #FlowerhornFish #Kamalau #MonsterKok #AquariumHobby #Cichlids #MonsterFishKeepers
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Flowerhorn Fry Care Guide: Diet, Water Changes & Recommended Products
How to Care for & Feed Flowerhorn Fry for Fast Growth and Color
Raising Flowerhorn fry is one of the most rewarding parts of breeding cichlids, but success depends on proper feeding, water maintenance, and temperature control. Providing high-protein fry food early on will promote rapid growth, early coloration, and strong kok development.
What to Feed Flowerhorn Fry (Week-by-Week Guide)
Week 1: Free-Swimming Stage
Once the fry absorb their egg sacs and begin swimming freely, introduce small, easily digestible, high-protein foods:
Hard-Boiled Egg Yolk: Dissolve a tiny pinch in warm tank water and introduce it with a dropper. Feed sparingly to prevent water pollution.
Crushed High-Protein Pellets: Powdered baby pellets or finely crushed adult growth pellets (such as CZ Aqua Help For Fry, Hikari First Bites, or Grand Sumo / Humpy Head ground fine).
Live Foods: Freshly hatched Baby Brine Shrimp (Artemia) or Daphnia provide ideal natural nourishment that stimulates hunting instincts and boosts survival rates.
Weeks 2 to 3: Developing Color and Plums
By week 3, fry typically reach around 1 cm in length and begin displaying early plum lines and reddish hues:
Flake Foods: High-protein brine shrimp flakes, spirulina flakes, or color-enhancing tropical flakes.
Live / Fresh Feeds: Chopped superworms (squeezed to extract protein) or mosquito larvae. Note: Squeezed worms can cloud the water, requiring prompt siphon cleanup.
Week 4 and Beyond: Accelerating Growth
Frozen / Fresh Proteins: Frozen bloodworms, tubifex worms, or homemade mixtures of finely minced beef heart or de-shelled market shrimp.
Micro Pellets: Transition from powder to micro-sized floating pellets to accustom them to a standard diet.
Recommended Commercial Fry Food Products
Hikari First Bites: Premium micro-pellet formula designed specifically for newly hatched fry.
CZ Aqua "Help For Fry & Small Fish": A specialized high-protein powder feed widely used by Southeast Asian Flowerhorn breeders.
Ocean Star International (OSI) Brine Shrimp Flakes: Digestible flake food rich in natural carotenoids to encourage early color.
San Francisco Bay Brand Frozen Baby Brine Shrimp / Bloodworms: Safe, parasite-free frozen alternatives to live foods.
Water Quality and Tank Maintenance
High-protein diets can quickly foul aquarium water. Maintaining pristine parameters is essential for fry health:
Water Change Frequency: Perform a 30% water change every 2 to 3 days.
If the tank is heavily stocked or cloudy after feeding, perform 10–20% daily water changes. Water Conditioners & Salt: Always add a tap water conditioner (e.g., Seachem Prime) to neutralize chlorine/chloramines and stabilize pH. Adding a light dose of aquarium salt helps reduce fish stress and ward off parasites.
Filtration and Heating Requirements
Filter Type: Use a Sponge Filter powered by an air pump. Overhead, canister, or powerhead filters create suction strong enough to trap and injure fragile fry.
Water Temperature: Keep the water between 28°C–30°C (82°F–86°F) using an adjustable aquarium heater. Warm water boosts the fry's metabolism, encouraging steady feeding and faster growth.
#FlowerhornFry #FlowerhornCare #AquariumHobby #CichlidBreeding #FishFeeding #MonsterFishKeepers #AquariumTips
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Master's Secrets To Breeding Flowerhorn
Its every Flowerhorn hobbyist dream of breeding his flowehorn. The process is easy and can be a very fulfilling activity. Keep in mind that flowerhorns are the most passionate lovers. They love to do rough play before engaging in copulation.
Here some pointers for you so that your breeding program will be successful.
Things you will need during your breeding.
1.Aquarium should be around 50-75 gallons. The size of the aquarium is of utmost importance.If you try breeding your pair in a tight space your pair may end up having a marital dispute instead of a having honeymoon and pairing successfully.
2.Water Heater-Water temperature is important because it keeps your breeding pair healthy and in heat. Get it heater and "in heat"? Set a nd maintain your water heater to about 30 deg..
3.A pottery dish or any flat surface like the rough side of a tile. This is where your breeding pair will nest and eventually lay her eggs.
4. Aerator-you need an aerator to serve two purpose.First is to keep the Oxygen levels in your water constant so have your aerator connected to an air stone. The second purpose is for filtering. Connect your aerator to a foam filter for this purpose.
5. Methylene blue.-Methylene will be used for your fertilized eggs to avoid fungal growth.
The Process of breeding your flowerhorn.
1.Selection and Introduction of breeding pair.
Choose the healthiest brood stock for you to breed. Healthy brood stock means more fertilized eggs and more fries to select from.
I introduce my breeding pair as early as 2 weeks before breeding. I place them in an aquarium with dividers. I do this so that the pair will be familiar with each other before their breeding hormones drive them crazy.
2.Getting your flowerhorn to mate. Your visual cue that your breeding pair is ready is when the female starts to loose its color and turns darker and with dark stripes all over it.Once your flowerhorn are ready all you need to do is put them together and wait for them to mate. You should however keep an eye on them while they are breeding, as flowerhorn aggressiveness can get out hand which would result in severe injuries or even death.
3. Getting your female to lay eggs. So how do I do that? Well the secret actually lies in you doing a 10% water change prior to bringing your breeding pair together. The water change changes the water temperature and chemistry a bit which in turn induces your female to lay eggs. Water change also mimics rainfall which also induces your female to lay eggs. So what I do is when I fill the tanks again I use the water hose as a sprayer which would mimic rainfall.
4.Getting a divorce. After your female has laid her eggs and the male has fertilzed them. Its time for the pair to part ways. Simply place them in separate aquariums and care for them as you usually do.
Monday, May 10, 2010
Some Interesting Facts About The Origins Of The Zhen Zhou/Pearly Flowerhorn
Zhen zhou flowerhorn or pearl flowerhorn is one of the main breed of flowerhorn. They originated from the original luohans and through several crosses and line breeding were able to produce the pearly fish that it is today.
Whatever the strain of zz it is generally believed that zz's have Amphilopus trimaculatus as a main ancestor.
Trimaculatus also known as the "rainbow cichlid" is responsible for giving the zz's its flowerline, the body shape, the lip shape, and of course the fin shape. Trimaculatus was then cross bred with other central american cichlid in order to produce the pearly zz's we have today.
As you can see below the picture of a trimaculatus and some zz's.
Trimaculatus by Brent Smith
Some zhen zhous especially the low grade ones are more tri-mac in appearance. Of the classic zhen zhous it is Eastern maiden strain that closely resembles a trimaculatus.
The downside to having the midas cichlid as ancestor is that the fierce nature and territoriality of the midas cichlid is passed to the next generations and becomes genetically fixed. Male zhen zhu with bigger humps tend to be more aggressive than males with no humps. These males are known to kill their females and other fish,a characteristic which is observed with the midas cichlid.
Whatever the strain of zz it is generally believed that zz's have Amphilopus trimaculatus as a main ancestor.
Trimaculatus also known as the "rainbow cichlid" is responsible for giving the zz's its flowerline, the body shape, the lip shape, and of course the fin shape. Trimaculatus was then cross bred with other central american cichlid in order to produce the pearly zz's we have today.
As you can see below the picture of a trimaculatus and some zz's.
Trimaculatus by Brent Smith
Some zhen zhous especially the low grade ones are more tri-mac in appearance. Of the classic zhen zhous it is Eastern maiden strain that closely resembles a trimaculatus.
The downside to having a trimaculatus as an ancestor is that the trait of having a weak tail and having a small kok is passed down to the next generations.
The Trimacs were bred to Amphipolus citrenelum which gave the zhen zhus their koks and added to the zhen zhus color variety and the trailing fins. Some facial features of the midas cichlid were inherited as well.
modern day zhen zhu
Wednesday, April 7, 2010
Masters' Secrets To Caring For Kamfa/Jin Hua Flowerhorn
Kamfas are flowerhorns which originated from the luo han. As to the exact steps in breeding still remains a mystery. Today however most kamfas originate from a zhen zhou which has been crossed with a parrot fish. It is better to use class A mammon parrot as compared to a blood parrot.Since mammon parrots have bigger bodies, more intense redness, have occasional pearlings at the kok and have bigger kok females. The mammon parrot progeny would present with a better kamfa qualities of: fan tail, wrap fins, small lips, unorthodux or more intense color pattern, more colorful pearls, and large kok and body. But wether you use a mammon or a blood parrot bear in mind that only 3% of the offspring will ever grow up to be high quality show type fishes plus most of the males from this breeding would be expected to be sterile. The only problem with your mammon parrot would be the price since a grade AAA parrot would fetch a few hundred dollars. The next best thing to a mammon would be your king kong parrot.
How To Take Care of A Kamfa.
1. Background of the tanks. Kamfas love colorful background and they would usually show off their beautiful colors when they have beautiful background. If they are exposed to montone colors and dark colors they usually appear stressed with stress bars or appear darker than the color of their surroundings.
2. Substrate
The kamfa needs to have colorful gravel, ceramic rings and crushed coral. Ceramic rings and crushed corals are porous and accomodates space for good bacteria to grow on. They provide for stability of the pH and provides your kamfa a way to rub itself free of parasites. Male kamfas also love to move gravel from one part of the tank to another part as a means of sanitation or as nest building.
My king kamfa in his tank with crushed corals and colored stones.
3. Tank
Tank it is recommended that the fish has it own tank of at least a 50 gallon tank. Kamfas tend to grow large which make them need more bigger aquariums rule of thumb is to choose an aquarium which is at least 3x the size of your fish.Kamfas also requires a minimum of 15 inches in depth. They need enough room to swim about and to establish a territory which it would vigorously defend.
4. Heaters
The water temperature should be around 85 degrees Fahrenheit for kamfas. This is to ensure optimal growth of their kok. Frequent fluctuation in temperature would hinder kok growth.The exact place of placing a heater would depend on individual preference. Personally i prefer to place the heater in areas that would ensure faster distribution of the heat to all parts of the aquarium. I usually place my heater either near the aquarium pumps intake valve or where the water drops from the filter box.
5. Ideal pH will be around 7.5 for Kamfa / Jinhua. For some reason kamfas prefer a more basic pH. To make your water lean towards the basic part add crushed corals as substrate. To be sure make a water analysis first by using ph testing kits.
6. Lighting is also of importance, make sure that the tank is properly illuminated for at least 8 – 12 hours a day. Lighting has an effect on the color patterns of your fish and helps relieve stress.
7. Kamfa / Jinhua also requires a tank mate. To make your kamfas kok grow bigger and for it to display intense color. You can place a blood parrot or any unwanted flower horn together with your kamfa. Be sure that they are smaller than the Kamfa / Jinhua. I prefer using a blood parrot as they have the ability to play dead, or hover out of view the kamfa thereby saving their own life.
9. Water change
The frequency depends wholly on the filtration system of the tank. Do only around 20 percent of water change each time. I personally conduct a water change to my Kamfa tanks once every 2 weeks. Some kamfas tend to be more hardy than zz's and can tolerate monthly water changes even if the filter is just your simple sponge filter. Kamfas generally prefer aged, aerated water to water that comes right out of your tap. To age your water simply place the water in a big container and let it sit for a day. Place an aerator and let it run while you are aging your water.
10. Feeding
Feeding should be done around 3 times a day, and should be fed with a variety of food – bloodworms, feeders, and pellets (which also includes color enhancer as well). Blood worms are one of the kamfas favorite food. They give the kamfa nice color and make them grow big fast and make them develop more squarish body. You could also give your kamfa live feeders consisting of any well fed and parasite free fresh water fish or fish fry. Just make sure they are parasite free. I personally feed my feeder fish Humpy head or head enhancing pellet. Not because my feeder fishes need to grow koks but because whatever secret formula is in the head enhancing pellets will be absorb into the body of the feeder fish and be readily available to the kamfa when he eats the feeder fish. Never get wild caught fish and feed it to your flowerhorn as they easily get digestive disorder from parasite laden live feeds. And lastly if theres anything else a kamfa would love to have it is market shrimps. Just make sure to take out the head part. Most people would say that the reason for taking out the head part is for you to prevent injury to your fish. I have found out that this is not so. I have found out based on experience that kamfas are adept at removing the head part themselves. So the real rationale for removing the head part is so you wouldn't have to remove it yourself later on. Remember that left over food adds up to water pollution.
11.Location of aquarium tank.
Place the tank of the Kamfa / Jinhua in a low traffic area at home, especially for small to medium size Kamfa / Jinhua. Small and medium sized kamfa tends to be skittyish and might injure themselves. For larger ones, they should have no problem in adapting quickly. Always put your Kamfa / Jinhua in a tank where the tank is around 4 feet above ground.
If you got some secret which you would want to share just post it at my comment section. I'm willing to learn new things about caring for the kamfa.
Nice pair showing a king kong parrot and a zz mating.
How To Take Care of A Kamfa.
1. Background of the tanks. Kamfas love colorful background and they would usually show off their beautiful colors when they have beautiful background. If they are exposed to montone colors and dark colors they usually appear stressed with stress bars or appear darker than the color of their surroundings.
2. Substrate
The kamfa needs to have colorful gravel, ceramic rings and crushed coral. Ceramic rings and crushed corals are porous and accomodates space for good bacteria to grow on. They provide for stability of the pH and provides your kamfa a way to rub itself free of parasites. Male kamfas also love to move gravel from one part of the tank to another part as a means of sanitation or as nest building.
3. Tank
Tank it is recommended that the fish has it own tank of at least a 50 gallon tank. Kamfas tend to grow large which make them need more bigger aquariums rule of thumb is to choose an aquarium which is at least 3x the size of your fish.Kamfas also requires a minimum of 15 inches in depth. They need enough room to swim about and to establish a territory which it would vigorously defend.
4. Heaters
The water temperature should be around 85 degrees Fahrenheit for kamfas. This is to ensure optimal growth of their kok. Frequent fluctuation in temperature would hinder kok growth.The exact place of placing a heater would depend on individual preference. Personally i prefer to place the heater in areas that would ensure faster distribution of the heat to all parts of the aquarium. I usually place my heater either near the aquarium pumps intake valve or where the water drops from the filter box.
5. Ideal pH will be around 7.5 for Kamfa / Jinhua. For some reason kamfas prefer a more basic pH. To make your water lean towards the basic part add crushed corals as substrate. To be sure make a water analysis first by using ph testing kits.
6. Lighting is also of importance, make sure that the tank is properly illuminated for at least 8 – 12 hours a day. Lighting has an effect on the color patterns of your fish and helps relieve stress.
7. Kamfa / Jinhua also requires a tank mate. To make your kamfas kok grow bigger and for it to display intense color. You can place a blood parrot or any unwanted flower horn together with your kamfa. Be sure that they are smaller than the Kamfa / Jinhua. I prefer using a blood parrot as they have the ability to play dead, or hover out of view the kamfa thereby saving their own life.
9. Water change
The frequency depends wholly on the filtration system of the tank. Do only around 20 percent of water change each time. I personally conduct a water change to my Kamfa tanks once every 2 weeks. Some kamfas tend to be more hardy than zz's and can tolerate monthly water changes even if the filter is just your simple sponge filter. Kamfas generally prefer aged, aerated water to water that comes right out of your tap. To age your water simply place the water in a big container and let it sit for a day. Place an aerator and let it run while you are aging your water.
10. Feeding
Feeding should be done around 3 times a day, and should be fed with a variety of food – bloodworms, feeders, and pellets (which also includes color enhancer as well). Blood worms are one of the kamfas favorite food. They give the kamfa nice color and make them grow big fast and make them develop more squarish body. You could also give your kamfa live feeders consisting of any well fed and parasite free fresh water fish or fish fry. Just make sure they are parasite free. I personally feed my feeder fish Humpy head or head enhancing pellet. Not because my feeder fishes need to grow koks but because whatever secret formula is in the head enhancing pellets will be absorb into the body of the feeder fish and be readily available to the kamfa when he eats the feeder fish. Never get wild caught fish and feed it to your flowerhorn as they easily get digestive disorder from parasite laden live feeds. And lastly if theres anything else a kamfa would love to have it is market shrimps. Just make sure to take out the head part. Most people would say that the reason for taking out the head part is for you to prevent injury to your fish. I have found out that this is not so. I have found out based on experience that kamfas are adept at removing the head part themselves. So the real rationale for removing the head part is so you wouldn't have to remove it yourself later on. Remember that left over food adds up to water pollution.
11.Location of aquarium tank.
Place the tank of the Kamfa / Jinhua in a low traffic area at home, especially for small to medium size Kamfa / Jinhua. Small and medium sized kamfa tends to be skittyish and might injure themselves. For larger ones, they should have no problem in adapting quickly. Always put your Kamfa / Jinhua in a tank where the tank is around 4 feet above ground.
If you got some secret which you would want to share just post it at my comment section. I'm willing to learn new things about caring for the kamfa.
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